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The first time I went to Le Gigot, it had been open only a day or two and it was still possible to get a table.
In short order, this quintessential small French bistro was well reviewed by tout le monde, it seemed. Now,
you must reserve, and dine early or late. But do keep trying until you succeed in eating at what is surely
my favorite French restaurant of the year.
Chef Eufenio Zapata turns out splendid, classic sauces and dares to season food enough.
Pamela Decaire, Zapata's partner, has created a warm, intimate little space with much attention to detail.
(When was the last time you got your own little terrycloth towel in a restaurant?)
It feels like Paris here, and that's what the two intended;
Decaire's inspiration was the Paris bistro Polidor.
To start, Zapata's tomato-basil soup, which I first got to know when he cooked it at Bistrot Margot in Soho,
was intense, essence of tomato.
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