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upscale, medium-thick version is based on a shellfish stock so profound you won’t need the accompanying rouille or grated Gruyere.
It swims with succulent hunks of fish and
tender crustaceans and bivalves. Two other great seafood dishes are built around grill-licked salmon and tuna.
...there’s plenty of great red-wine food, including the boeuf bourguignon of your dreams: tender chunks of
beef enrobed in deep, glossy, wine-kissed sauce.
There is one sauced meat dish, though – the restaurant’s namesake – that keeps me coming back for more: the Pernod-flambéed gigot
d’agneau aux flageolets, featuring the startling paradox of medium-rare leg of lamb with long-cooked flavor.
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